Mugiyu
Japanese summer revolves around two beverages. One is beer (natch). The other is barley tea, or mugicha 麦茶. Summer is when barley is freshly harvested and at its tastiest, but still — why barley tea, and since when?
According to Japanese Wikipedia, something similar to barley tea has been drunk in Japan since Heian times, but the story gets interesting in the late Edo period, when the drink was known as mugiyu. (This literally means "barley + hot water" and is arguably more accurate since barley tea doesn't actually contain any, you know, tea.) Mugiyu was served in special establishments known as mugiyu mise (among other things, no doubt) and staffed by attractive young girls, maybe like this one. These houses of barleyed debauchery were open late into the summer night, and sometimes there was music and hostessing going on. The Fujiokaya Diary records official disapproval of the industry, partly for moral reasons and partly because they were a fire hazard.
(Aside: I don't think the "fire hazard" thing was the sort of bullshit pretext we would all assume it to be if The Man used it to close down a happening nightspot today. Edo was a city of densely built wood and paper; fire hazards were a very big deal.)
You can read a number of quotations about mugiyu girls (麦湯少女) in this blog post, including the interesting assertion from Kikuchi Kan that the mugiyu mise of the early Meiji period were the predecessor to Japanese cafe culture — in which, indeed, the scandal of unmarried women serving beverages would be repeated without shame or repentance.
So: when did sultry, voluptuous mugiyu become the cheerful and wholesome mugicha of today? Again returning to Wikipedia and its sources, this seems to have happened in the postwar period. Two key developments were required for this shift: widespread uptake of home refrigerator technology, allowing easy storage of cool beverages, and the invention of the mugicha "tea bag." I suppose the analogy to tea was easier to make when the actual plant matter involved was hidden inside an opaque bag, but I also suspect the name change was an attempt to class the stuff up a bit, break the association with shamisen-playing floozies and Edo street culture and create a new link to the respectable, healthful world of tea.
(It's probably worth noting that Wikipedia's main source for much of this seems to be Hitachiya Honpo, who in turn claim to have invented modern mugicha culture more or less single-handedly. I have no reason to doubt their claims but neither have I independently verified them.)
language hat:
I have no desire to try the stuff, but "houses of barleyed debauchery" is a great phrase.